Collapse Volume VII, 569–569


Analytical Jelly and Transmodern Tatin

View Cart Product successfully added to your cart.


Good cooking comes from small villages and long traditions. One cannot favour, for instance, France’s petite cuisine over its cuisine villageoise. A solid, rooted, generous, confit de canard aux lentilles, deliciously magnified in Moissac, far exceeds a light, pretentious, stingy, rémoulade de tourteau à l’aneth, sauce fleurette citronnée, served at Taillevent’s. But philosophy in the twentieth century has followed fashions far meaner than those of the petite cuisine